Qualify for a VA Home Loan
If you are not a heating expert you might ask the question, "What good would it do me to look at the furnace?" In the case of proposed construction, the builder will specify the make and the size of the unit, and you can compare this with the one installed in the house.
There are many types of heating systems, any of which are satisfactory when of proper capacity for the house. These will include warm air systems, with ducts and outlets; hot water pipe and radiator types; and radiant pipe or panel types--these may be gas, oil, electric, or coalfired. Many systems have compact units of much smaller size than was true some years ago. The main concern is that the particular system has proper capacity for comfort and economy.
Two things you can check are the "Btuh output" and the calculated "heat loss." These measure the amount of heat the furnace will give and the amount of heat needed for the dwelling. If the specifications call for a "70,000 Btuh output" furnace, do not accept a furnace marked with any figures less than this, because if you do you may not be able to heat your home properly or economically. If the builder has substituted a different make furnace with the same rating, then be sure the furnace that the builder installed is equal to or better than the one that should have been put in.
Of course, if you live in a warm climate, less elaborate heating equipment may suffice. Furthermore, if you're buying an old house, you'll need expert advice on whether the heating system will be satisfactory, and what repairs it may need.
If insulation is specified, check on the insulation in the attic and also see that you have open louvers (ventilators) in the attic. A louver is a slatted opening with screen wire on the inside that provides circulation of air, summer and winter. It is very important that these attic vents or louvers be left open throughout the year. Occasionally, homeowners cover up the vent opening to conserve heat or keep out winddriven rain or snow. Openings should never be left closed up for more than a very brief time, such as during a severe storm period. Closing up this ventilation area can produce excessive condensation, and the resulting moisture may cause rapid deterioration of parts of the roof, walls, or ceiling.
In basementless houses with crawl spaces, foundation vent openings are for the same purpose of providing air circulation. It is important also that these foundation vents be left open the year round except for very brief periods of severe storm. Where heavy treated ground cover paper or roofing has been laid over the entire ground surface in the crawl space, the need for foundation ventilation is much less. However, in all cases some ventilation is important not only to prevent excessive condensation and deterioration of floor construction and other parts of the house but also to maintain better safety. A tightly enclosed crawl space without any vents whatsoever could be a hazard where gasfired or other type of unit heating systems are located within the crawl space and where sewer pipes are in this area and could cause small gas pockets if the under floor space is nearly airtight.
There are a number of types of insulation which are satisfactory. Foil, fill, slab, or board types of insulation installed between, over, or under framing members will be effective when properly used. Check your specifications and ask questions. If you have a flat roof, the method of installation will be different from that for sloped roofs. The important consideration is proper use of the particular type specified.
If your house has a basement, look it over carefully. Concrete floor and walls should have a sound surface, and if a drain is provided, the floor should have proper gentle slope toward the drain. A dry basement, which will remain free of water penetration through walls and floor, is highly important. Drainage of rainwater by good outside grading and intercepting drainage swales (lowlying land) to provide drainage off the lot, including provision for carrying water away from downspouts and waterproofing of foundation walls, should be in accordance with specifications.
Damp spots on walls or floor are not necessarily an indication of leakage. In humid areas, condensation will take place when inside and outside temperatures vary. A glass of ice water gives a practical example. Good ventilation of the basement or brief periods of turning on the heating system may well eliminate such dampness.
Check to make sure you have ample storage space. In houses with no basement, the builder usually provides for storage in the attic or in the utility room. If the storage is in the attic, it will take care of things like trunks, suitcases and the like, but if you have children, don't forget you will need a place for the baby carriage, tricycles, bicycles, etc.
If you are buying a house that is located where there are public sewers, you will have little to worry about. If there are no public sewers, you will probably get a septic tank. Septic tank systems, if properly installed and maintained, should give no trouble. Proper maintenance procedures call for the septic tank to be inspected at least once a year. With ordinary use and care the tank may need cleaning every 2 years. On new houses, VA will require inspections in most cases to try to assure that the system is properly installed. On older properties, you should get advice from your health department or from people familiar with the neighborhood to find out whether septic tank systems in the area work properly.
If you buy an "old" home, you should be absolutely sure the house is in sound condition. Get expert advice, if necessary, from some impartial person who has experience in housing construction. A thorough inspection of the property by you or a reputable inspection firm may help minimize any problems that could arise after loan closing. Particular attention should be given to plumbing, heating, electrical and roofing components.
If you find some defects in an old house which the seller agrees to correct, be sure to get a written agreement specifying what the seller will do before you obligate yourself to buy.
The time and expense of getting expert advice is well worthwhile--you don't want to buy a house with termites, a leaky roof, a wet basement, a poor foundation, poor lot drainage, a faulty sewage disposal system, an inadequate water supply system, or defective floors, walls, or ceilings, without knowing exactly what you're getting into. Extensive repairs to correct such defects may be very expensive.
If you believe the home you are buying is in need of storm doors and windows, added insulation or other energy conservation improvements, it may be possible to include the amount necessary to cover their cost in your loan. Check with your lender or the local VA regional office.
The Federal Government is concerned about potential environmental hazards in and around the home. They include asbestos, lead, radon, formaldehyde and other chemical contaminants. For instance, asbestos containing products in the home sometimes release asbestos fibers. If asbestos fibers are inhaled, certain types of cancer may later develop. Asbestos in homes poses several problems. Household members have little or no protection from exposure to asbestos fibers. Once released, the asbestos fibers may stay suspended in the air for many hours. After they settle, fibers can be stirred up again by a household activity, such as sweeping. During this time, asbestos fibers can be inhaled. This continued presence could cause an ongoing risk in the home.
For information about specific environmental hazards, or indoor air quality and safe drinking water in general, contact the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Public Information Center, 401 M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.
